Our tips for a wonderful stay in...
Newcastle Emlyn and the Teifi Valley
The River Teifi zigzags across the northwest boundary of Carmarthenshire. From the homely village of Cwmann, it twists south and east for 20 miles to Cenarth and beyond. Its towns and villages are bisected by the county boundary. They’re joined magically by ancient stone bridges which hump-back over the salmon-rich watercourse which has its source 1,500 feet up in the Cambrian Mountains. Key town Newcastle Emlyn is set in a notable Teifi tangle; it brings together the misty old of a 13th Century riverbank fortress and the shiny new of elegantly appointed specialist shops, cafes and pubs.
Among our best...
Fireside
'Llwyndafyd'
Any jukebox that pairs Bon Jovi with the Llanelli Male Voice Choir must be applauded. So hats off to the Llwyndafydd! Their music machine has everything from Elvis’s All Shook Up to Max Boyce’s Hymns and Arias. Moreover, they’ve also got a log-wood fireplace complete with copper kettles and village soccer mementoes, flavoursome ales from Carmarthenshire’s family-run Felinfoel Brewery and the latest essential stats from the Vale of Teifi Darts League.
Where - Llwyndafydd Inn, Saron, near Llandysul, SA44 5DR.
01559 371048.
Hamper heaven
'Newcastle Emlyn'
The people at Ty Croeso specialise in food hampers that linger long in the memory. Just ask for Teleri - then whisk her creation off to an idyllic riverside picnic retreat. Teleri’s double-fronted deli offers “fine wines, fresh coffee, Welsh and continental cheeses, home-cooked meats, pies and quiches.” At least, that’s what it says on its beautifully crafted Victorian-style shopfront. Mind you, even the high street Spar in chic Newcastle Emlyn has unique hand-painted signage - it’s that kind of place.
Where - Ty Croeso, Market Square, Newcastle Emlyn, SA38 9AQ.
01239 710343.
Paddle power
'National Coracle Centre'
Few villagers now make their living by sitting in a coracle and plucking salmon from the Teifi. The tiny hide boats have been replaced as tools of our local trade by the humble laptop and Blackberry. Around 200 years ago, however, one visitor said there were so many coraclemen in Cenarth that there was "scarcely a cottage in the neighbourhood without a coracle hanging by the door." It’s only right, therefore, that a museum celebrates the fact.
Where - National Coracle Centre, Cenarth, SA38 9JL.
01239 710980
www.coracle-centre.co.uk
Park bench
'Norwood Gardens'
It wasn’t long ago that Crispin Rayner was working for charity champion Lady Daphne Heald on a 700-year-old garden at Chilworth Manor in Surrey. Now his expertise is benefiting Carmarthenshire. Norwood is his dream come true, where he has converted green fields to immaculate gardens. To the side of his central 180m Long Walk are seven themed gardens designed with seating areas encouraging relaxation. Oh, and the cream teas are pretty good too. Surrey’s loss, our gain.
Where - Norwood Gardens, Llanllwni,
Pencader, SA39 9DU.
01559 395386
www.norwoodgardens.co.uk
Picnic gem
'Cenarth'
"Teifi Trout Association - Beat A - upstream limit," says the modest sign high in a tree rising up from the Ffynnon Llawddog riverbank. It’s a none-too-cryptic clue as to what natural treasures lie beneath the river as it swells, swirls, rushes and takes a breather in front of the 18th Century arched stone bridge. If you do go fishing, incidentally, make sure you know your salmon from your sea trout - you’re not permitted to land the former before mid-June.
Where - Ffynnon Llawddog picnic site, Cenarth.
01559 395386
www.carmarthenshire.gov.uk
Rapids run
'Llandysul Paddlers Outdoor Education Centre'
Wetsuit: Check! Buoyancy aid: Check! Helmet: Check! Kayak: Check! Then let’s go. A short mini-bus ride to the northern end of Llandysul, onto the Teifi for some expert instruction - and then it’s time for three-quarters of a mile you’ll never forget as the rapids shoot you between steep-sided riverbanks and over a rocky riverbed. "Our visitors want a hint of adventure,” say the staff. “They’re here for three hours and leave with a sense of achievement - and big smiles."
Where - Llandysul Paddlers Outdoor Education Centre, The Wilkes Head Square, Pont Tyweli, Llandysul, SA44 4AA.
01559 363209
www.llandysul-paddlers.org.uk
Shopping for sheep
'Llanybydder'
Breeding ewes, store lambs, ewe and lamb couples - everything to meet your sheep farming needs, sir. As scores of traders flock to the weekly Llanybydder Livestock Mart, the hubbub is buoyed by pungent countryside odours, thousands of sheep and all the tweed and Barbour you could shake a stick at. Even the splendidly angular St Peter’s Church opens on bustling market days. Highly recommended: Illuminating chats with the breezy and knowledgeable folk at Evans Bros Auctioneers.
Where - Llanybydder Livestock Mart, Llanybydder.
Evans Bros Auctioneers 01570 480444.
www.evansbros.co.uk
Traditional treasure
'Caws Cenarth'
It’s a long lane that slinks down a hillside to the Caws Cenarth farm - but the very first time a sliver of their hand-made cheese melts in your mouth the journey seems worthwhile. They enjoy having visitors watch the cheesemaking but do check before you travel because life on a farm has its unpredictable moments. Traditional Caerffili, Golden Cenarth, Perl Wen, Perl Las... you know this stuff’s good because it’s in many of the best food shops around here.
Where - Caws Cenarth Cheese, Pontseli, Boncath, SA37 0LH.
01239 710432
www.cawscenarth.co.uk
Viewpoint
'Llanllwni Mountain'
Ask at the Llanllwni Village Store - they’ll tell you the way. You can’t miss the shop, it’s on the A485, painted sky blue and right next to a stone barn carrying an antique orange Brooke Bond Tea advertisement. High above is the dramatic storm-blasted moorland of Llanllwni Mountain. Stop the car up there; the views are mightily impressive, with the deep green Teifi Valley twisting east and west. Pick a breezeless day for a picnic and your napkins will stay.
Where - Llanllwni Mountain, Llanllwni, near Llandysul.
© 2010 Carmarthenshire County Council.