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Llandeilo and the Towy Valley
Around 1,500 years ago (give or take a month or two) St Teilo established a monastic community where Llandeilo now stands. He must have loved the hilltop views of the Towy Valley. These days, your average worshipper enjoys the town’s medieval parish church - but also gets a kick out of the area’s super-stylish accommodation, boutique shops and tantalising opportunities to dine out and to enjoy a civilised tipple. The mountain biking’s hot too. Oh, and the history doesn’t end with the good saint - Dinefwr was the chief seat of early Welsh king Rhys ap Gruffydd.
Among our best...
Boutique bliss
'Llandeilo’s shops'
Ask Greg and Glesni what their secret is and they’ll quickly say: "Quality." Even their cushions are the sort that last you 20 years and more. Many are from Melin Tregwynt, a whitewashed wool mill in a remote wooded valley on the West Wales coast. The couple’s beautiful Llandeilo shop is one of the mill’s biggest Welsh stockists, and the touchy-feely Mondo range is one of Scorpio’s best sellers. Other Llandeilo boutiques reflect such irresistible vivacity.
Where - Scorpio, King Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6BA.
01558 824462.
Chess champion
'Llangadog'
"Family friendly," says the Good Beer Guide, "it’s full of character and atmosphere." The Red Lion - with huge wooden fire surround carved "1685" - is also good for lovers of chess as one deep-silled bar window floods light onto a cheeky checkerboard-design table. The boss man here, Kevin, comes from a family line of publicans and his spirited and luxurious remodelling of this place, from 1600s treasure to 21st Century gem, has been remarkable. Check mate - every time.
Where - The Red Lion, Church Street, Llangadog,
SA19 9AA.
01550 777357.
www.redlioncoachinginn.co.uk
Clean windows
'Llanarthne’s Great Glasshouse'
It has 785 panes of glass, most six metres square. It was designed by Lord Norman Foster and Partners - architects for the Berlin Reichstag’s dramatic glazed cupola, you know - and is described by those in the know as taking the shape of an "elliptical torus." Sounds good, eh? Well The Great Glasshouse looks good too. Its lavish, living exhibits from regions such as the Mediterranean, coastal California and south-western Australia help.
Where - National Botanic Garden of Wales, Llanarthne, SA32 8HG.
01558 668768.
www.gardenofwales.org.uk
Cocktail kings
'The Cawdor'
They’ve really shaken things up in historic Llandeilo. Indeed, The Cawdor considers it an art form. Their champagne cocktails, proclaims a blackboard in the midst of a floor-to-ceiling wall of wine, are made with the fruity Veuve Clicquot. They include the Mimosa - drenched in orange liqueur and orange juice. The Kir Royal has crème de cassis. Go on, you deserve it. Drivers - there’s plenty of non-alcoholic choice for you, including a Virgin Mary (spicy tomato juice).
Where - The Cawdor, Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6EN.
01558 823500.
www.thecawdor.com
Deep sleep
'Fronlas'
Having consulted with her pal, one national magazine writer claimed: "Our beds... were the comfiest we had ever slept in." Meanwhile, guests from deepest Gloucestershire wrote in the Fronlas visitors’ book: "Amazing night’s sleep - the best we’ve had away." The boutique B&B’s Eva puts it down to a sense of calm and some marvellous mattresses. "They’re local," she says, "and they have lots of layers of warm organic wool. The cover is traditionally tufted organic cotton twill." Sweet dreams!
Where - Thomas Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6LB.
01558 824733.
www.fronlas.com
Food for thought
'Betws Mountain'
Follow the Betws Mountain signs from the main Amman Valley road. Two and a half miles up, up, up and turn in to the picnic site. The benches are modest - the views are not. Before you is everything from the Gower peninsula’s iconic Worms Head promontory to the sites of motte and bailey castles and the powerful rise of the Brecon Beacons. Food tip: Baguette with hunks of freshly roasted lamb with mint sauce from Ammanford family butcher Martin Jones.
Where - Betws Mountain Picnic Area and Viewpoint, near Ammanford.
01558 824733.
Gargoyles
'Llandeilo’s heritage'
You can talk all day about history, but it’s the gargoyles you know you want. Close to blue plaques explaining how beautiful Llandeilo buildings were used during 1840s social uprisings, there’s one none-too-pretty little stone fella sticking out his tongue at you. He’s even got a buddy (tongue in, eyes-a-poppin’) on the other side of their Victorian school tower. Close by: Roman forts, a medieval castle, medieval townships. Wallow in the past... the gargoyles would love it if you did.
Where - Llandeilo.
01558 824733.
www.llandeilo.org
Lung buster
'Brechfa'
If you go down to the woods today beware of the muddy blokes with more sweat than a sauna testing factory. They’ll be busting a gut to tackle a 1,071m climb... and they’ll be taking some sort of sporty pleasure in it. The 19km Gorlech Trail, between Abergorlech and Sifigwm, helps keep Brechfa on the world mountain biking map. It’s hard, fast, all-weather and offers great views and exhilarating descents. Tandem, anyone?
Where - Brechfa, near Llandeilo.
Forestry Commission Wales, 0845 604 0845.
www.forestry.gov.uk/wales
Michelin man
'Salem'
Rod Peterson has cooked for Luciano Pavarotti and Pierce Brosnan. Now it’s your stomach he aims to please. So how does a coconut cream crayfish curry tickle your fancy - or supreme of guinea fowl with mango mousseline? Rod has made it into the Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide and into the revered Good Food Guide which describes The Angel as a "much-loved dining destination." Once you’re in, it’s easy to see why. A warm, embracing sensual pleasure.
Where - The Angel, Salem, SA19 7LY.
01558 823394.
www.angelsalem.co.uk
Photo opportunity
'Llandeilo Bridge'
The family album may now be a digital hidey-hole deep in Microsoft Windows but it shouldn’t stop us pouncing on a chance like this. As the eager River Towy snakes on, an immovable 19th Century stone crossing appears in the form of the 44m-span Llandeilo Bridge. As Bridge Street dog-legs up towards the tremendous stone church, its western flank is edged by a multi-coloured, steeply stepped terrace of chimneyed cottages. Don’t leave it to the postcard makers!
Where - Llandeilo.
01558 823394.
www.llandeilo.org
Scary adventure
'Trap'
As the Black Mountain rises powerfully to the east over the winding River Cennen, your route is down the castle’s steep ancient stone steps. As you enter the pitch-black limestone cave, a torch is essential so make sure you’ve hired one from the ticket booth. "Steep, damp and dark," says one Welsh castle guidebook. The kids will laugh and joke with mysterious tales of long-gone skeletal remains. Turn off the torch for a second... that’ll silence them!
Where - Carreg Cennen Castle, Trap, near Llandeilo, SA19 6TS.
01558 822291.
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk
© 2010 Carmarthenshire County Council.