Our tips for a wonderful stay in...
Laugharne and the southwest
There were some good reasons why the poet came here. Dylan Thomas and wife Caitlin settled in their Boathouse in the late 1940s and he drew glorious inspiration from its superlative aspect over the swelling confluence of the rivers Taf, Towy and Gwendraeth. Today, Laugharne and the tide-tickled southwest of Carmarthenshire still offer natural vitality - but also a great deal more. Man-made heritage abounds as does modern human endeavour highlighted by talented individuals such as hand-blown glass makers, silversmiths and the purveyors of wonderful Welsh-themed food and drink.
Among our best...
Bohemian rhapsody
'The Cors'
There’s an Alice in Wonderland quality to the way in which man of the house Nick has put together this terrifically eccentric Bohemian retreat. Crossing the 1800s threshold, a quick left reveals an offbeat bar with checkerboard wooden floor, attention-grabbing oil paintings and airy views of a long, humorously crafted garden. An ever-changing menu might feature locally-sourced pleasures such as crab, goat’s cheese and salt marsh lamb. Relax afterwards in the garden - you’ll never forget it.
Where - The Cors Restaurant and Gardens, Newbridge Road, Laugharne, SA33 4SH.
01994 427219
www.the-cors.co.uk
Cliff clamber
'The 177 steps'
Dolwen Point guards the western-most swoosh of Pendine’s spectacularly open sands. It’s an invigorating place to take a time-out. Have a Carmarthenshire Cowpots ice cream from the Point Café before you do - if they have it, the Crѐme Caramel Crunch with honeycomb pieces is rather mischievous. Then, lips licked, climb! It’s 177 thigh-straining steps - but the view from the cliff top is worth every twinkle of sweat. The thoughtful folk of the village have even planted a park bench here.
Where - Pendine.
Daredevil’s playground
'Museum of Speed'
Just up a grassy bank from the cappuccino-rich Barnacles Beach Café, this place has some incredible stories to tell. Back in the 1920s, Pendine Sands was the world’s Black Rock Desert, Nevada; the world’s daredevils flocked here to break world land speed records. Malcolm Campbell was among them in his 146mph motor Bluebird, as was Welshman JG Parry-Thomas in his 170mph Babs. This car survived (just) and can be seen here; the driver didn’t -
Where - Museum of Speed, Pendine, SA33 4NY.
01994 453488
www.carmarthenshire.gov.uk
Green dream
'The Green Room'
Be it The Kinks or Marvin Gaye there’s something soothing about the Green Room and its choice of music. The warm timber tables help too - their robust nature suggests they have foundations as strong as the 13th Century castle over the road. However, the prize comforter is a white pot of leafy tea and a bowl of cawl with granary bread. This inviting broth is thick with rich lamb and veg. Green Room, you really got me.
Where - The Green Room Café Bar, Grist Square, Laugharne, SA33 4SS.
01994 453488
www.thegreenroomcafe.co.uk
Hallmark haven
'Quicksilver'
Alby the silversmith set up in business more than a decade and a half ago - on modest back-to-work benefit Enterprise Allowance. Since then the craftsman - with black beard so voluminous that one amused American writer thought he resembled a "buccaneer of old" - has made one snug corner of Laugharne very much his own. His Quicksilver workshop nestles beneath the town’s elegant stone clock tower and opposite Tudor Williams’ evocative old coaching depot. Alby’s hand-made silver treasures are a joy.
Where - Quicksilver Silver Workshop, Market Lane, Laugharne, SA33 4SB.
01994 427700
Horse ride
'Morfa Bychan'
Harvey and Bonnie are unconventional beach companions, it must be said - but they’re more memorable than your average mollusc. These two well-mannered characters are among the Marros Riding Centre steeds happy to take experienced riders on an exhilarating gallop over the firm sands of Morfa Bychan Beach. They love their cinematic splashes through the surf. All together now with some cowboy whoops, happy hollers - and the Black Beauty theme tune!
Where - Marros Riding Centre, Marros Farm, Marros, Pendine, SA33 4PN.
01994 453777
www.marros-farm.co.uk
Hotel hideaway
'Hurst House'
Sometimes it’s best to let the critics do the talking. GQ: "One of the best hotels in Britain." The Independent: "Hurst House is like a louche Soho club beamed down onto the marshes of Carmarthenshire." Glamour: "The ultimate in chic luxury." Observer: "Arriving here is like falling off the end of the world on to a pillow of unadulterated style." Olive: "Guests love Hurst House precisely because it’s in the middle of nowhere."
Where - Hurst House, East Marsh,
Laugharne, SA33 4RS.
01994 427417
www.hurst-house.co.uk
Postcard perch
'Dylan Thomas Boathouse'
Time to tell pals you’re having a hoot? Well, forget SMS - choose a good old postcard (note: with Biro) and sit on the coastal-view terrace of this literary landmark. The glittering estuary outlook delighted one of our great poets so surely a little of that inspiration should rub off on the rest of us. "Over Sir John’s Hill, the hawk on fire hangs still," Dylan wrote hereabouts. Go on - match it! Could be one valuable postcard in years to come.
Where - Dylan Thomas Boathouse, Dylan's Walk, Laugharne, SA33 4SD.
01994 427420
www.dylanthomasboathouse.com
Star gazing
'The Laugharne Weekend'
So, where exactly would you find two former members of punk godfathers The Clash on the same bill as Britain’s hottest new comic novelists? Well, this understated arts festival is a good place to start looking. Its 2009 bill flagged up events starring both rockers Mick Jones/Topper Headon and Booker Prize winner DBC Pierre. Previous years featured talent as diverse as Patti Smith and Will Self. Astonishingly intimate, beautifully low-key and refreshingly different.
Where - Laugharne.
01994 427420
www.www.thelaugharneweekend.com
© 2010 Carmarthenshire County Council.