Our tips for a wonderful stay in...
Carmarthen and the West
To start investigating the compelling complexity of Carmarthen and the county’s western reaches, try stopping seven miles east of the town in Llanddarog. There, beneath its thick hatch, the White Hart serves up great ale brewed on-site and offers fabulous food. In its ancient village setting, one of Wales’ most highly regarded pubs illustrates how the area balances powerful heritage and tradition with a vibrant, innovation-fuelled present. Yes, the Romans settled in Carmarthen and Arthurian legend is rooted here - but attractions such as the Jabajak vineyard retreat and the town centre Emporium gift shop prove that modern excellence is thriving.
Among our best...
Boot camp
'Rainbow'
You wonder how they display so much fine feminine style in such a compact space. Ahead might be a fanned arrangement of pony hair boots in stunning leopard print from Italy’s Bumper label; below to your left - in an antique haberdasher’s display case - there might be delicate leather gloves by Dents of England; next to them a cluster of exquisitely crafted Austrian crystal perfume bottles by Two’s Company of America. At Rainbow, individuality is the essence.
Where - Rainbow, Lammas Street,
Carmarthen, SA31 3AD.
01267 230499.
Breakfast inspiration
'Roadhouse Restaurant'
It’s not just the fact that a superb Roadhouse cooked breakfast sets you up for the day or that the hardy brick building has plum countryside views. No, the most inspirational element here is that only around a decade ago the boss launched the business in a converted bus specialising in roadside burgers, butties and cuppas. Only once he left the coach was he able to serve specialities such as salmon fillet and mussels in champagne and prawn sauce.
Where - Roadhouse Restaurant, Llanboidy Road Roundabout, Abbey Road, Whitland, SA34 0LG.
01994 241193
www.roadhouserestaurant.co.uk
Fine dining
'Y Polyn'
"Open for lunch and dinner", proclaims the sign swinging outside the restaurant’s snug interior "...usually." It’s a hint of the warm humour common in everything Y Polyn does, underpinning its astoundingly good food. A cheery red-capped gnome in the garden hoists a watering can as his good pals inside serve innovative excellence that can range from Brecknock lamb with onion, garlic and thyme puree to Carmarthenshire yoghurt and cream pannacotta with honey roast figs. Relaxed, warm, inviting.
Where - Y Polyn, Nantgaredig, SA32 7LH.
01267 290000
www.polyn.co.uk
Pie man
'Eynon’s'
Go see the pie man; he’s got lots to talk about. After all, this is the fella who - every week - creates thousands of best-sellers for this butcher. There’s his Angus steak variety, the Welsh lamb and leek, the free range chicken with mushroom, the minced beef and onion and rather a lot more. What’s more, they all come with a smile borne of a knowledge that this is a family firm whose butchery tradition stretches back around 150 years.
Where - Eynon’s, Pentre Road, St Clears, SA33 4LR.
0800 731 5816
www.eynons.co.uk
Brief encounter
'The Gwili Railway'
Oh, the agony of Brief Encounter! "I know this is the beginning of the end," Dr Harvey told Laura as monochrome steam trains thundered across 1940s big screens. "Not the end of my loving you but the end of our being together." Phew. Thank goodness feelings are more in check as you chug retro-style through the wooded Gwili Valley. Mind you, some of those movie-style emotions may well be evident if you’re with a Great Western Railway buff. Hankies essential.
Where - Gwili Railway, Bronwydd Arms,
Carmarthen, SA33 6HT.
01267 238213
www.gwili-railway.co.uk
Camp bed
'Coedllys Uchaf Country House'
Early occupants of the antique iron and brass four-poster in this stunning B&B’s Swallow Room had less sleep than those who enjoy it today. It was crafted for the officers of Queen Victoria’s military who served in ugly campaigns such as the Crimean War, the Zulu War and the Boer War. As they moved camp, it was dismantled and moved with them. Today it is elegantly draped in muslin and soothed by a linen-covered Hungarian goose down duvet.
Where - Coedllys Uchaf Country House, Llangynin,
St Clears, SA33 4JY.
01994 231455
www.coedllyscountryhouse.co.uk
Kids’ deterrent
'The 1900 schoolroom'
Not that we like getting heavy, but sometimes isn’t it rewarding to keep the kids on track? What better than the site of a stinging Victorian cane from Llanelli’s Old Road School or the threat of a sturdy paddle-shaped wooden board once used to teach posture and, of course, as a punishment? This schoolroom recreation also has a blackboard chalked with "Children should be seen and not heard", century-old arithmetic test cards and lots more to induce winces and cringes.
Where - Carmarthenshire County Museum, Abergwili, Carmarthen SA31 2JG.
01267 228696
www.carmarthenshire.gov.uk
Takeway tea
'Mosaic Deli Bistro'
So, you’re gasping for a refreshing cuppa with an undertone of popcorn, eh? Or with a chilli kick ...or a hint of chocolate. Well, Teapigs is the supplier and the Mosaic is one of its very few Welsh retailers; they’re as finely selected as the leaves themselves, it seems. Such is the craftsmanship of these brews that the phrase "tea bag" is redundant; they prefer the "tea temple." The flavours are outstanding so take home a pack for later.
Where - Mosaic Deli Bistro, 17 Bridge Street,
Carmarthen, SA31 3JS.
01267 221679
www.mosaicdelibistro.co.uk
Coastal viewpoint
'Llansteffan Castle'
Legs must work hard to reach this spectacular fortress. A mile-long rocky path winds (sometimes steeply) up from the village - and it’s worth every puff of the overworked lungs. Spread out before the castle’s stocky stone walls are miles of hills to the north, sea to the south, sandy coast to the west and village-dotted landscapes to the east. Why fight over it, as they did for at least 250 years, when you can simply wallow in such breathtaking tranquillity?
Where - Llansteffan Castle, Llansteffan.
0800 074 3121
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk
Coffee stop
'Blue Boar Bistro'
Tucked away off Carmarthen’s main drag, the Blue Boar announces itself in magnificent powder-blue double-fronted style. Once inside, it’s a moment of joy to turn right, head for the whitewashed chunky stone wall and collapse into a deep cream sofa. The ceiling’s low and heavily beamed, the windowsill’s tiled in dark slate and the locals will talk to you all day about market town issues and Welsh rugby politics highlighted in the week’s Carmarthen Journal. The coffee’s not bad, either.
Where - Blue Boar Bistro, Water Street,
Carmarthen, SA31 1PY.
01267 233875.
Picnic spot
'Ynys Fach'
Savouring that feta and olive baguette it’s easy to forget that you’re peering out over the smoothed remnants of a volcanic mountain range that arose 400 million years ago. Or that these hills witnessed King Arthur see off the giant boar Twrch Trwyth. Or that - without the help of truckers like Eddie Stobart - enormous bluestone slabs from Carn Meini were transported almost 200 miles as the Stonehenge inner circle went up more than 4,000 years ago.
Where - Ynys Fach Picnic Site, A478, Glandy Cross.
www.carmarthenshire.gov.uk
© 2010 Carmarthenshire County Council.