Discover Carmarthenshire

A country pubs odyssey along the angler-friendly River Towy

The triumphant Towy is the longest river to run wholly through Wales. It bisects Carmarthenshire, running for around 40 miles from the county’s extraordinarily green north-eastern valleys to its expansive sandy coast in the south-west.

The Towy’s purposeful, winding path takes in great historic towns such as Llandovery, Llandeilo and Carmarthen. It boasts fabulous angling locations, with enthusiasts lured by exceptional scenery, a wonderful welcome plus - of course - the local salmon and sea trout (also known as sewin).

Such convenient treats have fed the locals for centuries - and continue to do so today.

To explore how fish dishes colour the menus of today’s great Towy Valley country pubs we asked writer Andy Pearson to head for a number of the river’s most family-friendly country watering holes. His must-have checklist for each included:

• superb ale
• human and architectural character
• local heritage and
• fair-priced tasty fish dishes

He found some crackers! There are others too, of course, but we don’t want to spoil the surprise - you can discover those for yourself.

Among our best...

An alternative view of the sea

The Towy Bridge Inn
Fresh from its high mountain source, the young Towy is already an impressive sight beneath the iron latticework of the century-old Rhandirmwyn Bridge. And right beside it is this thoroughly likeable inn. Its fish dishes are of the homely fish fingers and chips ilk, its real ales and ciders are beautifully kept and cheerily served. Enjoy them in the snuggest of snug lounges or outside thinking: "Blimey, in 30-odd miles this river hits the sea!"
Where - The Towy Bridge Inn, Rhandirmwyn, SA20 0PE.
Phone - 01550 760370

The mighty Oak

The Royal Oak Inn
A former hunting lodge for the local well-to-do’s, this magnificent pub with rooms has won many awards - and rightly so. Perched high up the upper Towy Valley’s eastern flank, it has expansive verdant views north and south with the flourishing river just half a mile down a wooded lane. Immovable stone walls, framed posters of 1940s sheepdog trials, stunning Welsh ales and seasonal local trout and salmon combine for an experience that lingers long in the mind.
Where - The Royal Oak Inn, Rhandirmwyn, SA20 0NY.
Phone - 01550 760201
More info - www.theroyaloakinn.co.uk

A celebration of style

Neuadd Fawr Arms
A meandering mile up the Towy’s pleasingly rocky Gwenlais tributary, the Neuadd Fawr is full of surprises - not least its intimate little snuggled-away restaurant room. This refreshing hidey-hole serves magical dishes such as local trout fillet, beer-battered cod and crispy whitebait. The inn’s lounges and guest rooms are immaculately presented celebrations of rural tradition and modern style with big windows ushering in light from the village’s charming time-capsule lanes.
Where - Neuadd Fawr Arms, Cilycwm, SA20 0ST.
Phone - 01550 721644

Ploughing on through the valley

The Plough Inn
Only a few hundred yards from a great n-shaped bend in the Towy, the Plough looks out over a vast expanse of this lush Welsh valley. A warm day with drink in hand can be a real treat in the carefully crafted gardens - and the food’s good too in the Plough’s strikingly contemporary interior. If you go for the battered fish of the day you’ll love the mushy peas. Kids? Direct them towards the goujons of fish.
Where - The Plough Inn, Rhosmaen, SA19 6NP.
Phone - 01558 823969
More info - www.ploughrhosmaen.com

Lording it up at the Emlyn

The Emlyn Arms
Locally caught salmon and sewin are a speciality of this two-centuries-old retreat overlooking the River Gwynon, a grassy-banked Towy tributary. The landlady loves to poach fish in white wine but also excels in fabulous grilled salmon steaks. Right next to the thatched and exquisitely restored Old Smithy, the Emlyn takes its name from the son of an influential former lord of the manor. It’s mightily popular with walkers, cyclists and those visiting Carmarthenshire’s impeccable garden attractions.
Where - The Emlyn Arms, Llanarthne, SA32 8JE.
Phone - 01558 668989
More info - www.emlynarms.co.uk

A ride back in time

The Halfway
Don’t be surprised to see a line-up of highly polished, much loved classic cars outside The Halfway. Groups who meet here regularly include lovers of stunning Jaguar and Morgan motors. The entrance porch has a trophy cabinet filled with paraphernalia from fondly recalled specialist auto shows and rallies. It helps that this exquisitely presented roadside favourite has a huge car park. Food such as baked salmon fillets, pan-fried sea bass and beer-battered cod helps too.
Where - The Halfway, Llanegwad, SA32 7NL.
Phone - 01558 668337
More info - www.halfway-inn.co.uk

Crossing the Cothi

The Cresselly Arms
As one of the Towy’s most faithful tributaries, the Cothi is a river of substance in its own right. Its beauty is celebrated at the dramatically situated Cresselly Arms, a mile or so north of the Towy. The pub’s steep slate roof is on a level with the Cothi’s triplevarch stone bridge, its windows peer across the swirling water and its tree-fringed riverbank garden keeps a wary eye on the lively currents. What a wonderful backdrop to enjoy the pub’s regular fish dishes.
Where - The Cresselly Arms, Pontargothi, SA32 7NG.
Phone - 01267 290221

Spice up your life

The Castle Inn
"Sorry, Olly," Stan Laurel tells his slapstick movie partner in a framed print on a stone lounge wall. Yet there’s no need to apologise for anything at the Castle - the warmth of this tucked-away gem allied to its memorable food and drink makes for a splendid stop-off. If the Cajun salmon is on the menu, grab it quickly; its crunchy herb-and-spice coating is as glorious as the 15-minute stroll - past churchyard, cottages and hilltop fortress - to Llansteffan’s brilliant beach.
Where - The Castle Inn, Llansteffan, SA33 5JG.
Phone - 01267 241225

From beach to bar

White Lion Hotel
The drama of the Towy meeting fellow magical rivers the Taf and Gwendraeth in the broad sweep of Carmarthen Bay is one of Wales’ natural wonders. And, from your relaxing perch on Ferryside beach, it’s only a two-minute stroll to the White Lion. Local Felinfoel ales accompany salmon, plaice and sole all sourced from within Carmarthenshire. A courtyard and garden are handy for relaxing after an energetic few hours with bucket and spade.
Where - White Lion Hotel, Ferryside, SA17 5RW.
Phone - 01267 267214